The National Botanical Gardens are a highlight; when the orchids are blooming, it's perhaps the city's most charming spot. Outside town, Varirata National Park is heaven for bird-watchers and the drive there is rewarding.
The city's relatively sophisticated infrastructure is a bonus. If you've been wandering through villages for weeks, a meal at one of the best restaurants is perfect after the dozens of sweet potatoes you'll have consumed. Or it'll serve as a welcome treat before heading bush.
Experiencing Port Moresby is about people rather than sights. It's a microcosm of PNG's future and it's fascinating to talk with expats and locals to sense what it's like to live in a city rated one of the earth's most dangerous and least livable.
Be mindful in Port Moresby (don't flash your jewels), but there's no need to be paranoid. With so little work available, most people sit around smoking, chewing betel nut, reading the newspapers – they'll regale you with good manners and thoughtful conversation.
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